Friday, October 20, 2017

God Killer Sword Part II

The God Killer Sword, forged by Hephaestus, is a weapon treasured by the Amazon nation.  My version is designed to be sturdy yet lightweight.  It is thicker than I originally planned but I like how it retains the essence of the sword without appearing to be a real blade. 


Part I included the basic supplies and the assembly of the internal core of the sword.  I recommend reading it before proceeding with Part II below.  I used a lot of layers in this design, partly to prevent it from being too hard (thus more likely to be banned), and you could easily modify it by using fewer layers.




Once the dowel rods and foam board were securely attached in Part I, I sprayed one side of the core with spray foam.  If you are making the shield as well, I recommend you have both pieces ready to spray to minimize wasted foam, as the cans are one use only.  After the first side dried, I sprayed the second side.
 

This was my first time using spray foam and I really overdid it- I had to carve the foam down significantly.  You just need a thin layer of foam on each side.  Also, the foam is very sticky and permanently adheres, so you will want to protect surfaces, wear gloves, and wear old clothes.



After the foam was dry, I trimmed it down with my pocketknife as shown above and below.  This material tends to dull the knife quickly, so I used my knife sharpener to keep the blade fresh.  
 


I next covered the foam layer with masking tape to smooth out the surface.


Using a mixture of Elmer's Glue All and water, I pasted a layer of small squares of newspaper to the outside of the sword to strengthen it. You will want to cover the entire surface.



Once it was dry, I sketched a spiral around the hilt to account for later placement of the cord.
 

Then I covered the sword in paper mache, leaving an indentation on the hilt for the cord.  You will want to smooth down the surface with your fingers after dipping them in water as you work.


I used a piece of plastic with a straight edge to keep the edges of the blade relatively flat as well.

 
After the paper mache dried, I sanded it down and brushed it off.  


This is the sanded version.


Very carefully, I used the glue gun to attach the leather cord to the hilt.  You want to avoid applying the glue too thickly, as it will show if you use too much.



 I combined the gold and black paint to make a dark mixture to paint over the cording and a lighter mixture for the rest of the hilt.


Then I painted in the details, including the dragons.  Since my edges are thicker and more rounded than the movie version, I used sharp contrasts in paint color to make it look sharper.


I mixed a medium silver color for the blade using the silver and black paint.  I first used the straight edge to fill in the imperfections in the paper mache.
 

 Then I painted the blade a solid silver tone with a flat paintbrush.
 

Lastly, I painted in the details of the blade.  I used four dark silver lines on each side of the blade.  For the engraved Amazon characters, I first painted the characters using just the silver paint.  Then, I created darker shadows to the right side of the characters to give it a more three dimensional look.  (You can see below where I have shaded the characters at the top of the photo, but not yet the ones at the bottom.)


Finally, to protect the outside of the sword, I sprayed it with a few layers of matte Modge Podge.  Below is the final sword with matching Amazon shield.
 

Here is a closeup of the hilt details.  The end of the hilt looks ridged but that is a painted illusion- it is actually completely smooth.


It's a pity that Ares chose to destroy such a beautiful weapon.

Thursday, October 19, 2017

God Killer Sword Part I



The God Killer Sword, a Themiscryan treasure wielded by Diana in the Wonder Woman movie, was the obvious choice of weapons to accompany the origins based shield I designed.  I recommend making the sword in conjunction with the shield, as some of the supplies are shared between the two.


The sword is lightweight and designed to be sturdy with a forgiving exterior, as I hope to take it to my first Comicon.  From what I've read online, some of them frown upon hard prop weapons.  The core of the sword is made of dowel rods and foamboard and the outside is made of foam, newspaper, and paper mache.  You could modify this build by eliminating some of the many layers I used for additional reinforcement and to soften the exterior.

Supplies for the core: Foamboard, 1" dowel rod, and 3/8" dowel rod.  (I did not use additional piece of wood in photograph.)


 Tools and other supplies used: Handsaw, vice, power drill with assorted bits, box cutter, pocketknife, knife sharpener, file, scrap wood (piece of old 2"x4"), marker, glue gun, scissors, ruler, Elmer's Glue All, paper mache, straight edge, sand paper, leather cord, bowl for mixing


Additional supplies: gloves, spray foam, newspaper, masking tape


Finishing: Acrylic paint- black, thalo silver, and thalo gold (same shades I have used for all the other pieces of the costume); paintbrushes; protective spray


Part I shows how to create the core of the sword, which is made of dowel rods and foamboard.  The basic design of the hilt is shown in the sketch below.


I cut a 6.5" piece of 1" dowel rod and drilled a deep hole in the middle of one side until it was just big enough to squeeze the 3/8" dowel rod inside.  I recommend starting out with a small drill bit and slowly working your way up with additional bits until you reach the 3/8" size if you are using a hand drill.  I also drilled a shallow 3/8" hole in the middle of the other end.





Using my pocketknife and a file, I created a flat indentation on opposite sides of the 1" rod to later accommodate the foam dragons.


I next cut the 3/8" dowel rod into a piece approximately 27" to 28" and firmly wedged it into the larger rod.


For the end of the hilt, I cut a piece of scrap wood as shown below with my hand saw.


There are probably other kinds of saws that are more efficient, but I haven't learned how to use any of those yet.  This was a little crude, but got the job done.


Once I had the shape cut out, I whittled it down with my pocketknife.


Next, I sanded it and drilled a shallow 3/8" hole in the end.


I cut a small piece of the 3/8" dowel rod and used it to connect the two pieces of wood, as shown below.


I temporarily removed the 28" piece of dowel rod to sand it down and create flat edges on two opposite sides.


Next, I cut out two pieces of foam board (approximately 23.5" long) using the box cutter and glued them to the rounded edges of the dowel rod using a glue gun, as shown below.  The flat edges face up and down (you want a flat blade.)  You may need to trim the edge of the dowel rod if it is too long at the end.


I used the sketch of the hilt shown earlier in this post as a pattern for the dragons and traced it onto the foam board, cutting out multiple dragon pieces.  (Excuse the cat feet, Annie wanted to help!)  Don't waste your time cutting out the ridges on the outside like I did; I ended up covering them later anyway.


I used a whole dragon piece on the front and back of the sword hilt and cut smaller pieces to fill in the middle.  You can see an example of how I layered the pieces below.  The gap in the middle will be filled with the 1" dowel rod.


I attached the dragon pieces to the sword core using the glue gun.
 

This concludes the basic core construction.  Part II will show how to create the exterior of the sword and finish it in acrylic.